Lovely London in Springtime!

London is gorgeous in springtime. People start to wear lighter jackets and sometimes you even see some shorts and skirts with bare legs! The flowers that sprout up everywhere are simply joyous. These flowers can be observed just doing everyday things around London. No special trip to some pricey gardens required. Just keep your eyes open and feast them on the cherry blossoms, daffodils, bluebells, hyacinths, tulips and all the other plants bursting into life to celebrate a new year of growth.

Columbia Road Flower Market – so unbelievably beautiful (but you will have to battle the crowds!)
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The White Cliffs of Dover and Canterbury Cathedral

The white cliffs of Dover is famous but there is nothing like seeing something like this in person on a beautiful, blue sky day! The cliff-side walk is really stunning. Best to pay for parking up near the cliffs. You could search for parking close to Dover town but then you would have to climb up the hill to get to the cliffs!

I kept my eyes peeled on the water for some whales or dolphins but I didn’t see any but is that France I see? The high location also gives a stunning view of Dover port.

Dover
Dover
Dover
Dover

Stretch your legs on the drive home from Dover by stopping in Canterbury for a look at the magnificent Canterbury Cathedral. Tickets are about £15.50/adult or you can time your visit for a service so you pop your head in for a quick look for free!

Canterbury Cathedral
Canterbury Cathedral
Canterbury Cathedral

Bath, Stonehenge and Windsor

When visiting London, there are a number of places which can be visited on a day trip from the city.

Bath is a beautiful city. If you want to go to the famous Roman Baths, the tickets are best pre-purchased and are allocated in 15 minute time slots, so check your transportation timings! The tickets are quite expensive (approx. £26/adult) and can sell-out during peak periods such as school holidays and bank holidays. When you go in, you will be provided with an audio guide in your choice of language to help you understand the history and context of the Roman Baths. It is not a particularly large attraction but it is interesting. Take your time, try to ignore the crowds of tourists and try to feel the serenity and history of the baths!

Roman Baths
Roman Baths

Stonehenge is another interesting day trip destination not too far from London. Once again, tickets for this can be pre-purchased for approximately £21/adult or you can brave the long queue if you get there on a busy day without a ticket. A ticket will get you free parking at the carpark for the Stonehenge Visitor Centre. You will also get to view the exhibition at the Visitor’s Centre. No ticket required for the toilets or the gift shop. You can then choose whether to join the queue to be herded onto one of the giant coach buses that will drive you 2km to Stonehenge or you can walk the 2km. This walk is a delightful amble across some well kept paddocks and is quite lovely on a sunny day. Many people who paid for tickets chose to walk one direction and bus back once they had seen Stonehenge. It is important to note that even with a paid ticket, you will be unable to get close to the stones and you will never be able to touch them.

The cheaper alternative is to do the 2km walk to Stonehenge. Without a ticket, you may have to pay to park. Once you are within sight of the stones, you will see the crowds in the paid section. There is actually a small, heritage trail that runs parallel to the paid trail. This is free for the public. This trail is further back from the stones compared to the paid area but not by much. It’s a great free alternative to see the stones. You can read up on the history of the stone formation online and then check them out for free!

Whilst we were there, we did see some vehicular roads that get quite close to Stonehenge. If you don’t have a great desire to walk and don’t need to get close, it might be worth using your GPS and driving around the area. It is probably possible to get a good view from the road and then perhaps pull over for some photos.

Stonehenge – the view from the free path isn’t bad at all.
Stonehenge – free walking track to the left. On the other side of the fence on the right is the paid section.
Stonehenge – note the crowds of people to the right of the stones. They can’t approach the stone either!

A visit to Windsor Castle is also an easy day trip from London. This castle is the oldest and largest occupied castle in the world. Once again, pre-booking of tickets is recommended on busy days as they do sell out. Tickets are around £28-30/adult.

WIndsor Castle
WIndsor Castle

London is not dismal!

All across the world when you speak to someone about their home country, you will get a stream of negativity. I have seen this from Australians, Canadians, Germans and now the English. You could argue that there can’t be anything too terrible by this list of countries. They are affluent, high-functioning, first world nations and not war torn, famine-stricken back-waters. In the UK, the most common reaction when a local finds out you have relocated there from the paradise that is Australia is “but WHY!!?? It’s DISMAL here!”

Dismal, what a horrid word and what a sad sentiment to say about ones own country. Defined as causing a mood of gloom and depression. Common synonyms are bleak, cheerless, desolate, dreary, and gloomy.

No country is without it’s problems, big or small. This is the case with the UK. Things are tough for many in the UK. Energy costs are high and inflation is high and yes, the weather is often grey and rainy. In London, the city is grimy, the rental market is insanely competitive and the cost of living vs average earnings makes things very difficult. You could also argue that politicians are lousy people no matter what country you are in. Nevertheless, there is plenty to be positive about.

Big Ben – looking spectacular on a gorgeous blue sky day!

It could be argued that without having some bad times you don’t appreciate the good times as much. Similarly without experiencing some grey and drizzly weather, you don’t appreciate the gorgeous sunny, blue sky days. Weather reporting in the UK is unreliable (apparently there are good meteorological reasons for why forecasts are more difficult in this part of the world). There have been many a day that have been predicted to be rainy but all of a sudden, the clouds will part and the sun and spectacular blue skies emerge. The side effect of the drizzle and rain is a beautiful shade of lush greenery here in the UK. This is something that someone who has lived in the dry parts of Australia really appreciates.

Anyway, the worst of the winter is over and there are the most glorious signs of spring everywhere. There are snowdrops, crocuses and daffodils. The cherry blossoms have come out and they are so enchanting, that it is impossible to say that London is dismal!

Cherry Blossoms in London – Aldgate Square
Snowdrops – the first harbinger of spring!
Turn the snowdrop over! There are all kinds of variations on the inside of the flower. A hidden secret! Exquisite!
Purple Crocuses near Horses Guard Parade
Springtime Daffodils

If you are sick of the cold, grey London weather, one of the best things is that London is a major transport hub. From here, there is so much of the globe which is easily accessible. Perhaps a short trip to the south of Spain for some warmth and Moorish architecture!

London is a massive city and the result is a melting pot of diversity. A huge number of people from all over the world live and work here and also plenty of tourists. The result is a dynamic city with lots of diverse, delicious choices to tickle your fancy in food and events.

An array of paella at the Portobello Road Markets
A lion dance during Chinese New Year blessing a restaurant for a good business year ahead.

There are plenty of other advantages of living in a big city. There are plenty of free and paid events, performances and lectures. There is also loads of opportunities to meet interesting people. The population density also means that the apps like Olio, that helps to reduce food and non-food waste work really well.

Olio is an app which helps prevent waste. Food Waste Heroes collect food which can no longer be sold and help to distribute it into the community. On this night, we got all these lovely Pret items for nothing.

London is very famous for it’s theatre scene. There are so many shows which are playing that the competition is fierce and the talent and quality of the productions outstanding. Whilst it may seem expensive to go to a big name show, there are plenty of ways to score a cheap(er) ticket.

West End Production of Sylvia based on the life of famous feminist activist Sylvia Pankhurst.

London is full of iconic sights. It’s hard to feel dismal when you look up and you see something majestic like Tower Bridge.

Tower of London
Changing of the guards at Buckingham Palace
Victoria Memorial – crowds anxiously waiting for the changing of the guards
A great view of St Paul’s Cathedral from One New Change
City of London Skyline
Tower Bridge – often mistaken for London Bridge. It was painted in browns during the war to minimize visibility to protect it from bombing but was painted since in white, red and blue to celebrate the Queen’s Jubilee. An iconic sight in London. Yet, before it was built, there were a huge number of competition entries as to the type of bridge that should be built across the Thames that can allow ships to go through. This bridge could have looked and operated in a completely different way! That’s the beauty of design! Different ways to achieve the same outcome!
Glass walkway on Tower Bridge. You can see the cars and river go past below!
These old motors used to be the way that Tower Bridge was raised to allow boats through. The system has been upgraded and these are no longer being used.
London City Hall
Westminster Abbey
Westminster Abbey

In addition to the iconic sights are the hidden gems. Walk around, look up, look around and you may see something interesting. Here are some cool places and things in London that I’ve accidentally stumbled across whilst wandering about.

The Iconic Lloyd’s building
Westminster Cathedral
Australia!
Triton and Dryads Fountain – Regent’s Park

The people in London are kind and friendly people. This has been unexpected. It has not been difficult to meet people who have transitioned from being new acquaintances to being friends.

The public health system in the UK is dysfunctional at times but is free and is very good. The medical staff do their absolute best and are kind, supportive and competent.

When you need to get out of London, the UK is a big country with centuries of history to explore.

Castle Acre Castle
Bailey Gate, Castle Acre built in about the year 1200 and you can drive through it today!

No place is perfect. There will always be good and bad. Hopefully you can look around your life and there are some positive things, some joys, however small in size and that things are not dismal for you.

Observations of Andalusia

Andalusia, in the South of Spain is a lovely spot for a warm getaway. Layers of history to explore, orange trees on the sidewalk, a laid back, slower paced lifestyle, tapas and sangria consumed alfresco. Cities and towns in this area include Seville, Malaga, Cordoba, Rondo and Granada. It’s was lovely to visit in March. The temperature range throughout the day meant only a light jacket was required in the morning and evenings. The middle of the day warms up to make it comfortable in a T-shirt. It was pretty amusing to see the tourists coming from colder climes blossom in the warmer Spanish weather whilst the Spanish locals were rugged up with thick coats and scarfs as they were really feeling the cooler temperatures.

Alhambra

Andalusia is a great place to visit. The whole region also feels very safe for tourists, even at night. The food is interesting and the people friendly. The cost of living is also less than London and Australia making it an affordable getaway. March is a good time to visit as there were tourists around but it wasn’t overwhelming.

Here are some random observations of our visit there.

Housing

A lot of the houses have an inner courtyard or Andalusian patio. This is an architectural development from the Roman atrium. It makes a lot of sense in the usually sweltering Spanish weather. These inner courtyards are a cool, tiled, sanctuary, made lush and green with the use of pot plants. They are private places just for the household and interestingly keeps the display of family wealth much more hidden than in other cultures. The outside of their homes are modest with little hint of what may lay within in contrast to ostentatious showy homes with large front yards open for all to see.

The walls in these older homes seem very thin. Noise carries easily from one room to the next.

Cordoba

Environment

There is plenty of fertile land and good soil in the south of Spain. There are areas where it is more rocky and hilly but there is plenty of flat, fertile and productive land. Whilst traveling through the region in bus and trains, there are plenty of wind turbines scattered throughout.

One of the most striking thing around each of these cities are the orange trees. There are orange trees planted on sidewalks everywhere. Despite being the end of the season, there were still plenty of oranges on the trees in March. Initially, it seemed silly that edible fruit should be left on the trees to the point where some fruit has become moldy. Other fruit lay on the sidewalk below, even the birds don’t touch it. When we tried one of these fruit, the explanation became clear. This variety of oranges are horribly sour and are only used for marmalade with the addition of a lot of sugar. Regardless, the bright colored oranges contrasted with the green leaves of the trees makes for a distinctive and cheerful sight in this region.

Algeciras

In a pleasant contrast from Australia, it felt like there were very few annoying bugs or insects. Windows can be left open to catch the night breeze with no fear of insects being drawn into the indoor lights.

After the rubbish, dirt and grime of London, the cleanliness of these Andalusian cities was a pleasant surprise. There is little rubbish around and the streets were very clean.

Interestingly, the parks of the Andalusia does not have much grass or flower beds. It seems that the Spanish prefer to pave over their parks or to have packed earth instead of grass or flower beds. Flowers are grown in flower pots. Disappointingly many of the parks do not grow big trees which would help shade and cool the area.

Transportation

The trains and buses in this region are of a high standard. The coach bus that goes between Seville and Algeciras was very new, clean and modern. The tickets were very reasonably priced. The intercity trains in this region are clean, well kept and surprisingly spacious and comfortable.

There were issues however, for example, mass confusion at a bus station due to the lack of clear signage. It would have been simple to rectify. It is a disappointing letdown to what seemed like a well functioning system.

The other highly annoying thing about the Spanish train system is the need to buy seat reservations for an Interail or Eurail rail pass. These only cost about 4 euros each but can only be purchased at a Spanish train station. This means that for tourists, the reservation can only be purchased when they get to Spain. This takes precious time away from sightseeing and risks the train being already fully booked thereby upsetting other plans. In reality, when travelling Spain, the Interail or Eurail railpass is a waste of time and money. It is better just to buy individual tickets. These can be purchased in advance online and are not too expensive.

The historical centers in these Andalusian cities are centuries old and were never designed for cars. As a result, some of the labyrinth of roads can be incredibly narrow and when a car goes down the street, it requires all pedestrians to practically hug the wall on either side to get safely out of the way.

The infrastructure for biking and scooters is excellent in Spain. Using e-scooters or bikes are normalized and the bike lanes are often smooth, segregated and world class.

As with all touristy cities, the horse and cart is also a mode of transportation. These are always lined up near the big sights ready to whisk away some well heeled tourists willing to cough up the exorbitant fee.

Diet and Food

Wondering around the supermarket, it was striking the differences in the products being sold between Spain vs UK or Australia or USA. It is so easy to eat according to the Mediterranean diet and things are less processed. Ingredients on food products only contain ‘real food substances’ instead of unrecognisable chemicals, preservatives or additives. The olive oil section is huge. There are plentiful choices of cans and jars filled with all manner of legumes e.g. beans, chickpeas, lentils etc. A huge section of the aisle is dedicated to canned oily fish like tuna, mackeral and salmon. There are lots of good quality fresh vegetables and also a large section of various fresh seafood. The quantity of seafood vs pork vs chicken vs beef reflects the diet of the population. Seafood of all kinds dominates! Pork and chicken are a distant second and beef hardly eaten at all.

Salmorejo – a traditional Andalusian tomato based soup which is eaten cold. This is very similar to Gazpacho except for the addition of bread. The addition of bread is smart, frugal cooking as it utilizes stale bread and bulks up the soup to make it more filling. These convenient, ready made cartons are available in the supermarket and contains no weird ingredients so it is very healthy.

The proportion of fundamental foods rather than pre-prepared foods in the supermarket indicates that the people cook from scratch often rather than taking shortcuts or eating pre-prepared meals. There was less obesity on the streets to be seen.

One surprise we found at the supermarket was a free chain locking system for wheeled granny shopping carts. This is convenient as the carts can be securely locked up whilst the person does their shopping and then used to cart the shopping back home!

Tapas culture dominates this region. It’s nice because it’s not just about eating quickly or eating a big meal for fuel but about lingering over a few bites of food and a small drink. The emphasis is about spending time chatting to friends and family. It felt more about making meaningful connections with people and taking time with them instead of the practicality of fueling the body.

In Andalusian restaurants, tapas is more common than the daily menu (Menu Del Dia). The Menu Del Dia, when you can find it, tends to be excellent value for lunch where a 3 course meal including bread and a drink can be had for between 11 – 15 Euros. Service charge or tip is rarely added to the restaurant bill which was a great relief after London where this practice is unfortunately normalized.

Culture

Following on from the healthier food, it could be argued that the Spanish culture and way of life is healthier and more balanced. The starts are slow in the morning. The streets are quiet and shops are still shuttered. Eventually, things come a bit more to life after 10am. Lunch is later, between 1 -4pm approximately. Then in the late afternoon, the streets become deserted again. Most shops are shuttered again as the people take their siesta or have a late afternoon rest to hide from the hottest part of the day. If you make a dinner booking at 7:30pm, you will be one of the first tables at the restaurant. The later part of the evening is when the city really comes to life. There are more people on the street than at any other time of the day. Suddenly the streets are buzzing with people and the whole vibe becomes more lively as people sit out at alfresco tables chatting, drinking and eating tapas. Most of the year, it is too hot to be out during the day and the coolness of the night is so much more alluring.

Despite the slower pace of the culture and the greater emphasis on family and friends instead of the rat race of work, things seemed to be functioning (at least superficially) sufficiently well in Spain.

Costs

It might be interesting to some to get a feel for the costs of a trip to south of Spain. Of course this is just an indication, everything depends on your tastes and budget. The currency is what we paid in. The price of train tickets vary greatly depending on how early you book and what time in the day you travel.

  • Flight from London to Barcelona – Vueling – 27.69GBP (no luggage)
  • Flight from Barcelona to Seville – Vuelng – 22.15GBP (no luggage)
  • Flight from Seville to London direct – Easyjet – 43 EUROS (no luggage)
  • Accommodation in Seville – $83 AUD/night (Pension Dona Trinidad, clean and simple, room + bathroom)
  • Accommodation in Algeciras – $50 EUROS/night (Hospedaje Lisboa Algeciras, self contained accommodation + bathroom)
  • Accommodation in Malaga – $72 AUD/night (Airbnb, bedroom + toilet, shared bathroom + kitchen)
  • Accommodation in Granada – $43 EUROS/night (Hotel Sacromonte, clean, spacious room + bathroom)
  • Accommodation in Cordoba – $56.97 EUROS/night (Tendillas Suite, massive private self contained apartment with 2 bedrooms)
  • Accommodation in Seville – $87 AUD/night (Airbnb, newly refurbished, clean self contained apartment + bathroom)
  • Bus ticket from Seville to Algeciras – $20.26 EUROS
  • Train ticket from Algeciras to Ronda – approx $11 EUROS
  • Train ticket from Ronda to Malaga – approx $15 EUROS
  • Train ticket from Malaga to Granada – approx $32 EUROS
  • Train ticket from Granada to Cordoba – approx $23 EUROS
  • Train ticket from Cordoba to Seville -approx $22 EUROS
  • Gibraltar Nature Reserve – to climb the Rock – £16/person
  • Ticket to Alhambra, Granada – $18 EUROS/person
  • Ticket to Real Alcazar of Seville – $13.5 Euros/person

Smoking

Smoking is very common in Europe. There are a lot of people smoking in Spain. Interestingly, vaping is less common in Spain than in the UK. Smoking cigarettes and cigars is more common than vaping.

Religion

There are a lot of churches scattered all through the city. This is a reflection of how Spain has always been quite a religious country. Things must be changing though, as we accidently visited a number of churches during evening service. The crowd in attendance was minimal and old. The service was very old fashioned and boring. If the church wants to remain relevant, engaging and pull in the youth of today, they will have to change a lot.

Cordoba

Does this whet your appetite to travel this region? Check out my other blog posts on Seville, Ronda, Gibraltar, Cordoba, Malaga and Granada as well as a post about Andalusian food.

The Food of Andalusia

The food of the south of Spain exemplifies the Mediterranean diet. Various types of seafood dominate the cuisine when it comes to the protein. This includes a lot of oily fish like tuna and anchovies. Pork and chicken come a distant second to seafood followed by beef which is not usually eaten. Vegetables, olive oil and legumes such as lentils, chickpeas and beans form other key building blocks of this cuisine.

The supermarkets are filled with a higher proportion of fundamental foods which form the building blocks for cooking a meal instead of pre-prepared, processed foods or meal shortcuts. This makes the Spanish diet very healthy.

Eating out is mainly about tapas. It’s about having a small plate to nibble on with a small drink. It is less about filling up with large meal than about connecting with friends and family. This too is very healthy as plenty of research shows that having meaningful connections in life is a key to a happy and healthy life.

The famous soup of Andalusia is the Salmorejo. This can be considered a cousin to the famous Spanish Gazpacho. Salmorejo is a cold, tomato based soup which also incudes bread and olive oil. Bread is not used as an ingredient in Gazpacho. Salmorejo has the same refreshing, cooling, tanginess similar to Gazpacho but is made creamier and more filling with the bread blended through. It’s a smart way to use up leftover bread. Ancestors of this soup can be traced back to the Roman Empire where a tomato-free version of this soup existed. The tomato was a much later addition once they were introduced to Spain.

Salmorejo – a traditional Andalusian tomato based soup which is eaten cold. This is very similar to Gazpacho except for the addition of bread. The addition of bread is smart, frugal cooking as it utilizes stale bread and bulks up the soup to make it more filling. These cartons are readily available in the supermarket and contains no weird ingredients so it is very healthy.

Another classic on the Iberian peninsula are the legs of ‘jamon’ or ham. In many restaurants, specialist shops and even in the local Aldi, there are legs of ham strung up. These vary in price but are usually quite expensive. They are delicately sliced into the thinnest layers and arranged carefully into plates for tapas or to be sold in smaller portions.

Jamon Iberico
Spinach and Chickpeas (Espinacas con Garbanzos) – a traditional dish from Seville. A healthy Mediterranean dish. (The other dish in the picture is a hearty Andalucian Lentil Stew).
Fried Anchovies – healthy, oily fish.
Paella and Salmorejo
Cocido Andaluz – a quintessential Spanish stew consisting of chickpeas, potatoes, morcilla sausage, ham. It’s a classic peasant dish using scraps of meat to flavour a soup which is bulked up with whatever is cheaply available e.g. potatoes and chickpeas.
Eggplant with Honey (Berenjenas con Miel) a classic Cordaban dish. Seems a little strange but actually works well and is very tasty. The honey used is traditionally Miel de Cana which is sugar cane honey. It is closer to molasses than honey from bees.
Oxtail Stew (Rabo de Toro) is a Cordoban dish – Made from the tail parts of the dead bull that was distributed after the bull fights. This was initially a poor person’s dish but turned into a rich person’s dish when it was realized that when this undesirable cut is braised for a long time, the meat becomes tender and the sauce velvety.
Churros being fried in oil – deep fried dough has a place in almost every cuisine in the world. Cheap ingredients, elevated by deep frying makes for a delicious, cheap snack!
Churros Con Chocolate
Mercado Central de Atarazanas
Mercado Central de Atarazanas
Mercado Central de Atarazanas – bacalao or salted cod is a common ingredient. Historically, cod was salted to preserve it for long ship journeys. This food has a long history that involves the slave trade.
Mercado Central de Atarazanas – various types of seafood dominates Andalusian cuisine.

Showstopping Seville

The first stop everyone makes in Seville is to visit the Real Alcazar of Seville. This and Granada’s Alhambra are the two big tourist “must visit” sites in Andalusia. It is strongly advisable to pre-book tickets to these two attractions as they are absolutely crawling with tourists. Don’t let that put you off going though. These places are jaw-droppingly special. These photos are a very small selection of many, many photos that were taken. People probably argue as to which is better, Seville’s Alcazar or Granada’s Alhambra. I would insist that a visit is essential to both if you are in the region. They are different. It is easy to forget in the Alhambra that the patterns on the walls used to include colour but with time, the colour has all worn away. In the Alcazar, there is still a lot of colour and I was surprised how understated and lovely it looks. I had assumed that the inclusion of colour would make it all very garish. For me, Seville’s Alcazar is better, but only by a whisker!

The reason why this type of architecture looks so distinctive because it is influenced by Islam where it is not permitted to make art with depictions of humans or animals in case it led to idol worship. As a result, great artistic beauty can be found in patterns and symmetry.

Royal Alcázar of Seville – This picture shows how every bit of space in the room is ornately decorated.
Royal Alcázar of Seville
Royal Alcázar of Seville – is a feast for the eyes!
Royal Alcázar of Seville

One of the striking things about Seville how you can feel the city’s long and layered history through it’s varied architecture.

Seville Cathedral
Setas de Sevilla – Mushrooms of Seville – a super striking wooden structure in the centre of the city
Torre del Oro – a military watchtower built in the 13th century
General Archive of the Indies
Plaza de España, Seville – built in 1928
Plaza de España, Seville
Plaza de España, Seville
Plaza de España, Seville

Cordoba, Spain

A beautiful city with treasures to see around every corner. Sad to see so many beautiful old churches conducting services for only a handful of old people. Perhaps it is time these beautiful buildings be used for other purposes.

Cordoba
Cordoba
Cordoba
Cordoba
Cordoba
Cordoba
Templo Romano
Cordoba
Roman Bridge of Córdoba
Torre De Calahorra
Mosaics at Alcazar of the Christian Monarchs
Alcazar of the Christian Monarchs
Cordoba
Mosque Cathedral
Cordoba
Calleja de las Flores
Estatua de Maimonides – Cordoban born philosopher