The South of France in August

A lot of people would have heard of Cannes and Antibes in the south of France. Actually, the whole coastline along that area is a holiday destination for Europeans in the summer. The vivid blue, sparkling water of the Mediterranean sea and the coastal aspect brings a relief from the heat. The area is littered with large pleasure crafts in the water, buzzy alfresco restaurants and crowded beaches. The day time temperatures in August are unpleasantly hot. The mornings are pleasant and the temperature drops as the light fades at the end of the day making an evening stroll an absolute pleasure.

The landscape in this region is drier and more rocky than other parts of France. It more closely resembles Australia.

The old city of Antibes is quite crowded with tourists in August. There are lots of small alleyways and quaint shops. The wait staff in the restaurants swap effortlessly into English to cater for the English speaking tourists.

Due to the love of dogs in Europe, many European cities smell of piss. It’s unfortunate as the stench mars a lovely visit. Perhaps more greenery in some of these old towns would help both with cooling the place in the summer and give the dogs (and maybe the men) somewhere more absorbent to relieve themselves! France has been a country where there are no free public toilets. This, I suspect, results in many of the male population relieving themselves for free where they can.

The beaches here are so much more crowded than Australian beaches. The quality of the beaches are also inferior to many Australian beaches as the sea floor is quite rocky and the sand is not as pale and fine. Nevertheless, it is so hot that everyone heads to the beach to cool off!

Whilst this area is beautiful, my strong recommendation is to avoid this region in August. It is too hot, crowded and expensive.

Plage Des Ondes
Plage Des Ondes
Plage des Ondes, between Juan Les Pins and Antibes. How many beach umbrellas can you count in this small space?
Plage Des Ondes – so crowded with not a spare bit of sand to spare for anyone!
The smaller super yachts parked at Port Vauban, Antibes
The buzzy evening vibe in Old Antibes in August
Crepes being made in Antibes
Moules Mariniere
Marché provençal Antibes
Marché provençal Antibes
Night over the water in the South of France (Golfe Juan Vallauris) – in August, the days are very hot but the nights are a perfect temperature
Cannes
Cannes Beach
Plage de la Gravette, Antibes
Plage de la Gravette, Antibes
Laneways in Antibes
Marina at Golfe Juan Vallauris

Arles, a City with a Roman Amphitheatre

Arles, located in Southern France, is famous for two main things. One is it’s Roman amphitheatre and the other is for Vincent Van Gogh. The Arles Amphitheatre was built in 90AD and used to host 20,000 people to watch chariot races and hand to hand gladiator combat. Two thousand years later, this amphitheatre is still amazingly being used. They hold bull fights and other events such as plays and concerts in it.

Vincent Van Gogh and a number of other famous painters lived and worked in this area. Van Gogh produced over 300 painting and drawings during his time in Arles.

Old Walls around Arles – you can see from the stones that there has been some reconstruction at various stages
Alleyways of Arles
A river cruise boat making it’s way down the Rhone River in Arles
Cloître Saint-Trophime – Arles
Arles
Arles Amphitheatre (Arènes d’Arles)

Elegant, Stately Bilbao

Bilbao is a city that has became more of a travel destination vs just an industrial city when the modernistic Guggenheim Museum was erected. Whilst the museum is the most striking thing about the city, there are plenty of other historical buildings to enjoy when walking around Bilbao as well as the Basque cuisine.

The Basque region includes both Bilbao and San Sebastian and these people have their own language, history and cuisine. Interestingly, the Basque language, Euskera, is an isolated language. It’s origins are not known but it does not have Latin roots like French, Spanish or Italian. When looking at signs in Basque, the words are mostly unintelligible as are littered with T’s and X’s. It is not related to any other language in the world and is the last descendant of the language of pre-historic Europe.

Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao – including Puppy, the world’s largest flower sculpture
Guggenheim Museum Bilbao
Guggenheim Museum Bilbao
Guggenheim Museum Bilbao
Stained Glass at Bilbao-Abando train station
Bilbao
BIlbao
Bilbao
Bilbao – many elegant and stately buildings wherever you look in the central area
Bilbao Cathedral
Bilbao
Basque Tuna and Potato Stew (Mamitako) – a fish dish eaten on tuna fishing boats. This stew was hearty and the seafood scent permeated throughout, giving this dish lovely fragrance and flavour.
Red Fish with Garlic Oil – this dish has integrity! The fish is cooked splayed open and drizzled with a salt, oil and browned garlic. It doesn’t look attractive at all on the plate. Note the eyeball! The fish has lots of bones and is hard to eat in polite company. This is not what matters. The meat on this fish was sweet, tender and beautifully cooked. The garlic oil elevated this dish without overwhelming the mild fish. This was foremost about taste and not looks. I like a restaurant brave enough to do that! These are people who know what is important in life!

When visiting Bilbao, we had the opportunity to head out to Plentzia. This is a town about 45 minutes north of Bilbao with a gorgeous, wide, sandy beach. It was a Saturday when we went and there were lot of people heading out for a beach day in Plentzia.

View of the Plentzia River from the bridge (Pasarela De Plentzia) by night
Plentzia Port
Plentzia Beach – we didn’t realise how great this beach was until we saw how crowded beaches were in the south of France. This is quite deserted in comparison!

The holiday town of San Sebastian in Spain

Catching the train to San Sebastian, Spain from Toulouse, France, it was striking how the landscape changed from more lush forests to a drier landscape reminiscent of Australia. As we starting walking around San Sebastian, we could feel refreshing coastal breezes. It was such a relief compared to the stifling heat of Toulouse.

San Sebastian is a city which survives on tourism, especially in the summer months. It was clear why when we visited. It has a big stretch of beautiful, sandy albeit crowded beach, elegant buildings and a buzzy summer holiday vibe. People were relaxed, wondering about in brightly coloured summery outfits and sandals. There was plenty of al fresco dining options for eating and drinking.

We did a tips only, free walking tour and learnt that San Sebastian has a whaling history (until they hunted them right out of the area!). Then these coastal people become corsairs which are basically “legal” pirates who raid ships on behalf of the crown and once they give a cut to the crown, the rest was theirs to legally enjoy. San Sebastian also grew when the queen of Spain started to holiday there and when she did, brought much of the court and aristocracy with her. This was how money started to pour into this place and the fancy, elegant buildings were put up.

San Sebastian City Hall
San Sebastian – weather monument
San Sebastian
San Sebastian
Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Coro
San Sebastian Port
San Sebastian
San Sebastian Beach – Playa de la concha – super crowded in the August summer holiday season!
San Sebastian – these ostentatious bridges!
San Sebastian – another ostentatious, over the top bridge!

Tantalizing Toulouse

Even before arriving at the Toulouse Matabiau train station, it was obvious we were heading to a busy place. With every approaching station, the train became more and more full. By the time we arrived, every seat was taken and there were people and luggage in the aisles. As we exited the train, there were lots of people waiting to get on urgently. This was probably because, only the people who got on first would get a seat. Despite the strong heat of the day when we got off the train, the city was busy! This was no sleepy town like Limoges! Toulouse is France’s fourth largest city following Paris, Marseille and Lyon.

Due to the searing summer heat, the best time for a wander around town is in the cool of the morning. The afternoon and in particular late afternoon is extremely hot. It was 37C on the day we visited. Unfortunately, the downside of our early morning walk-around is that the attractions were closed. This meant we couldn’t take a peak into some of the historical churches. When walking around Toulouse look around and look up. There are so many stately and elegant historic buildings, narrow alleyways. We even found a hidden church on the way to Monoprix, the local supermarket!

The biggest disappointment of our visit to Toulouse was being unable to get either an English speaking tour to the Airbus factory or even an English speaking “free” walking tour of the city. It’s a real pity. Toulouse is famous for being the home of Airbus and an insight to the Airbus aeroplane factory would have been a real treat!

Saint Jerome Catholic Church at Toulouse – this was the hidden church close to the Monoprix in the Toulouse old city. A man was seen emerging from a dimly lit corridor. Inside were several rooms where church services could be held. There is very little sign of this church from the street.
A statue in Toulouse. Note the space invader on the right side of the wall!
Saint Stephen’s Cathredal (Cathédrale Saint-Étienne)
Saint Stephen’s Cathredal (Cathédrale Saint-Étienne)
Saint Stephen’s Cathredal (Cathédrale Saint-Étienne)
Le Capitole
Place du Capitole
Couvent des Jacobins
Canal Du Midi – a 240km long navigable channel, made to help connect the Mediterranean to the Atlantic
Basilique Saint-Sernin de Toulouse
Jardin Japonais Pierre Baudis
Toulouse
Toulouse
Pont Neuf

Limoges – a quiet gem of a town

Limoges, France is not a touristy city. It isn’t as pretty as other cities and as a result doesn’t draw a lot of tourists. Nevertheless, there was plenty to see in this town, which seemed very quiet, probably because it’s residents were having their summer holiday by the coast! It was a real treat wandering around town in the cool of the morning while the town’s residents had their Sunday morning sleep in. We had a lot of the attractions to ourselves!

Gare de Limoges-Bénédictins – the train station!
Inside Gare de Limoges-Bénédictins – the train station!
Cour du Temple – a small open area accessible by a small laneway. These buildings were built in the late 1500s / early 1600s.
Rue de la Boucherie – the historic butcher’s lane. This Sunday morning, it is the location of a swapmeet where locals can bring out their household items for sale. Some of the houses in this area date back to the 1200s.
Chapelle Saint Aurélien
Halles centrales – local market
Halles centrales- check out the high roofs of this building! This market is open 6 days a week!
Halles centrales
Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Limoges
Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Limoges
Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Limoges
Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Limoges
Jardin botanique de l’Evêché – the building in the background used to be the Bishop’s Palace. Now it is an art museum. The gardens of the Bishop’s Palace has been planted with a range of interesting plants. The tree in the left of the photo is actually a papaya tree! What an unexpected choice in this location!
Jardin botanique de l’Evêché
Jardin botanique de l’Evêché – I love the flower beds in the Garden’s of the Bishop’s Palace! It’s a formal garden in shape and does include formal topiaries but the plantings are so varied and interesting. There is kale in a variety of colours, cabbage, tomato plants, parsley, rhubarb, climbers, flowers etc. A crazy mix of colour and texture. I like how fruit and vegetable plants have been incorporated into formal flower beds!
Mairie de Limoges (city hall)
Fountain in Jacques Chirac Square
Pont Saint-Étienne – this Medieval bridge was built in 1203 over the River Vienne.

Orleans and Joan of Arc

In 1429, Joan of Arc, a 17 year old French peasant girl leads a French force in relieving the city of Orleans which had been besieged by the English. She did it because Christian saints told her too. Nevertheless, she changed the course of French history and Orleans, the town has not forgotten despite the many hundreds of years that has passed.

Joan of Arc statue outside Hotel Groslot. Her skirt has holes in it. These are
bullet holes from a battle for the liberation of Orleans in August 1944.
Joan of Arc
Joan of Arc in Place Du Martroi (the central square)
Maison de Jeanne d’Arc- a 1960s reconstruction of the 15th-century house that hosted her between April and May 1429 (the original was destroyed by German bombing in 1940). The world’s largest Joan of Arc research centre is upstairs.

Orleans is a lovely town to visit even for those without an interest in Joan of Arc. The cathedral is spectacular and includes many gothic elements. There are many stone buildings which are all in excellent repair and scrubbed very clean.

Cathédrale Sainte-Croix d’Orléans
Cathédrale Sainte-Croix d’Orléans – the gothic detailing is quite scary. Imagine a world without the internet or horror movies……these open mouthed terror filled faces would haunt your nightmares! They are hard to see in this photo!
Inside Cathédrale Sainte-Croix d’Orléans
Orleans, France
Hôtel Groslot – built around 1550, Nothing was too exquisite for Jacques Groslot, baillif of the King of France
View from Hotel Groslot
Musée des Beaux-Arts d’Orléans
Street in Orleans lined with giant Ukrainian flags

There are many charming al fresco restaurants along the cute, narrow stone laneways in Orleans. We indulged in some buckwheat galettes followed by a Nutella crepe!

French Buckwheat Galettes – seafood/cream/leeks/cheese and chicken/camembert/cream
A view from Orleans from the Loire River

The Little Unexpected Surprises Arriving in the United Kingdom

Australia and the United Kingdom are like family. They are very similar culturally. Despite that, there have been a few surprises coming here.

Visitors to Australia are often apprehensive about our venomous and dangerous animals. They watch the documentaries listing our venomous snakes and spiders, the man-eating sharks and crocodiles and the deadly (but almost invisible) Irukandji jellyfish. I therefore expected to arrive into the United Kingdom, a countryside settled for centuries to be benign when it comes to dangerous flora and fauna. There may be no large wild animals but there are stinging and thorny plants aplenty!

On our first day here, we were introduced to stinging nettles, an innocuous looking weed common in the countryside. They sting if contacted against the skin. There is also a shin height weed called a thistle with sharp prickly leaves. The Christmas Holly shrub actually has spiky leaves all over. Last but not least are brambles! This hardy shrub grows like a weed. Rough, tangled and prickly with thorns! What a surprise to find so many stinging, thorny and prickly plants in this country! Watch where you walk!

The upside to the thorny bramble bushes are the sweet blackberries they produce. You can find blackberries growing naturally all over as well as wild strawberries. I want to learn more about the edible plants I can forage in this country because who doesn’t love free food! There is a lot to learn actually. There are plenty of strange new trees and plants that I cannot as yet name or identify e.g. yew, cedar, elm, poplar, beech, yarrow etc.

Despite the recent reports of a terrible heatwave, the weather has cooled down significantly. British people are a cold hardy sort, with the ladies wearing their bright summer dresses in temperatures that would have Australians zipping up their jackets! It is so cool that butter is kept out on the counter in a butter dish and the bread is kept at ambient in a bread box! This would not be the norm in Darwin where the humidity and heat would melt the butter and grow mould on the bread.

There has been a discovery of a couple of surprising foods that are new to me. Damson gin is a sweetened gin made with the fruit of the damson tree. A small, dark blue, ovoid, plum like fruit that is too sour to be eaten as is but with gin, sugar and time, it turns into a sweet, port-like drink, perfect for an aperitif or a nightcap.

Another new food is the pork faggot. Pork faggots are meatballs made of pork offcuts, offal and other herbs and seasonings. It’s a traditional food in the UK. Here is another example of a “waste not, want not” or “nose to tail” eating which is a lesson from the past that has lost favour but should be re-invigorated as move into the future. Reducing the number of animals being farmed is good for the climate. This can be achieved by eating less meat and eating all parts of the animals to avoid waste. Consuming non-traditional parts of the animals such as the liver can also be healthier than the usual cuts.

The striking thing about visiting towns in the UK countryside is how the varied the architecture is, reflecting the time when they were built. An example would be the historic old Warwick town with its 1000+ years of history and a majestic, medieval Warwick castle looming over the town. Contrast this against the neighboring Leamington Spa, a more recently built town that grew when it’s waters were purported to have medicinal qualities. The Georgian and early Victorian architecture in Leamington gives it a completely different vibe to the historic Warwick town despite being in such close proximity to each other.

Warwick Castle
Warwick Plaque – check out the dates!! 1100 years of history!
Graveyard in Warwick
Street in Warwick

Compare these towns again to the big city of Birmingham with a population of over 4 million people. Skyscrapers, large modern shopping malls, modern architecture adorn the heart of this big city. Birmingham is a city buzzing with the excitement of the upcoming Commonwealth Games which they are hosting.

Birmingham
Birmingham – a city with more canals than Venice or Amsterdam

Another surprise in the UK is the diversity of the accents in the one country. Whilst there are a few regional differences in the way Australians speak, the range in accents is miniscule compared to the variation in accents that can be heard from the UK. These reflect differences in regions as well as socio-economic backgrounds. Despite the differences in accent however, there is one common thread that has been unanimous thus far. Everyone in the UK has been really lovely, kind and warm.

One more thing which I suspect doesn’t change regardless of the country are politicians. We caught the recent debate between the two leadership contenders for the leadership of Britain, Rishi Sunak and Liz Truss. This comes not long after watching the leadership debate in Australia between Scott Morrison and Anthony Albanese. Both the Australian and British debates were the same with the aggressive positioning and posturing, the persistent interruptions and insistent hogging of the limelight. They were both equally hard to watch, undignified and basically seems to confirm that politicians (in general) despite how hard they try, are simply unable to come across like trustworthy, normal human beings with integrity.

A highlight thus far in the UK has been attending a play, Richard III at the Royal Shakespeare Theatre in Stratford Upon Avon. This gorgeous town, the birthplace of Shakespeare has a touristy main street full of old Tudor buildings and a large theatre in a prime location overlooking the Avon River. The production was excellent. It always surprises me how well versed British people are with the history of their kings and queens. Then again, considering how incestuous, violent and drama-filled it all is, it does make a compelling story!

View of the Avon River from the Royal Shakespeare Theatre
Royal Shakespeare Theatre, Stratford Upon Avon