Tips-Only Food Tour in London

I’m frugal. I love ways to save money but still have a fun time! In London, I found this tip-only food tour run by Free Tours by Foot. This was a London’s East End food tour. It’s actually the only tips-only food tour I saw in London when I was there in March 2015 and also, the only tips-only food tour I’ve ever seen in the world.

I love tips-only tours and actively search them out wherever we go. These tours are a very economical way of getting an excellent tour and the tour guides are incentivised to do a great job to maximise their tips. You just tip as much as you can afford and you think they deserve at the completion of the tour. It works out significantly cheaper than a full priced food or walking tour.

I love food and I love understanding the history behind it. A food tour is without a doubt, much more fun than another museum, monument, church or statue! One of the best things about this tour is that depending on your budget, level of hunger, dietary requirements and sense of adventure you purchase only what you want to eat on the tour. You don’t end up paying for stuff you don’t want to eat.

OK, onto the food and all the delicious things we tried. I apologise for the lack of pictures for every stop but I was just too busy eating to think about photos!

We tried some pies at the Old Spitalfields Markets. These were tiny mini pies in a choice of flavours and just delicious! When pies were first made, the crust was really just flour and water. The crust wasn’t meant to be eaten and it’s purpose was to be the container to hold the filling. It was not until some French influence resulted in fat being used in the pastry. That’s how we get yummy buttery, crumbly pie pastry that we are more familiar with today!

Onwards towards Brick Lane which was an area favoured by the Bangladeshi immigrants moving into London. There are a lot of Indian/Bangladeshi restaurants along Brick Lane and if you walk along here in the evening, you will be approached by the restaurants with discounts, menu’s and free drinks! I love a bit of competition! It drives the price down and the quality up!

We stopped at an Indian sweet shop. It’s a shop that sells a huge range of Indian goodies. They had pakora’s with everything kind of vegetable imaginable, many different kinds of samosa’s and a massive range of barfi. Pakora is an Indian spicy vegetable fritter and barfi is an Indian confectionary made with condensed milk and with flavours and colours limited only by your imagination! I wish I took a photo to illustrate but I was too busy eating my eggplant pakora and feeling quite contented.

There is a gorgeous chocolate shop along Brick Lane run by Ghanaian owners called Dark Sugars. The owner gave us some free samples and talked us through his products. There were rustic looking chocolate truffles in a massive range of flavours and also more fancy looking chocolates depending on your tastes. We tried one of the truffles and I can attest, they were divine! The lasting impression I had from this shop is the owner who is so proud of Ghana and of his chocolates. It is inspiring to see enthusiastic people who do things with passion, pride and love.

Dark Sugars Chocolate TrufflesDark Sugars Fancy Chocolates

Rustic chocolate truffles and fancy chocolates at Dark Sugars, Brick Lane

One of the ladies on the tour bought herself a hot chocolate drink. As you can see from the picture below, it was seriously indulgent and a meal in itself!

Dark Sugars Hot Chocolate

Hot Chocolate Drink from Dark Sugars

During the tour, we stopped at the highly awarded Poppies Fish and Chips store. I love fish and chips and these battered fish fillets were so flaky and tender, I don’t understand how they didn’t break apart during the frying process! I loved it so much that I returned to another Poppies store near Camden markets later in my trip. That time, I actually stopped eating to take a photo. Hence the half eaten fish!

Poppies Fish and Chips

Along Brick Lane, there is a 24/7 Jewish bakery called Beigel Bake which has a cult following. this time. They are famous for their affordable salt beef bagels. Unfortunately, by this time, there was just no more room in my tummy for something as filling as a salt beef bagel.The bagels are generously filled with salt beef, pickle and hot mustard sauce.

Beigel BakeSalt Beef Bagels

Salt Beef Bagels at Beigel Bake, Brick Lane

Perhaps I should have paced myself on this tour or perhaps I should’ve brought a backpack to save a bagel for later! This place is open 24/7 and is a favourite for drinkers after a big night. It has quite a following and every time I went past in the following week, regardless of the hour, there was always a queue!

The last stop on this tour was a doughnut place at the Shoreditch Box Park called Dum Dums. I prefer savoury food over sweet and at this point, I had no more room! I think the picture of the doughnuts says it all! How crazy indulgent do they look!!

Dum Dums Doughnuts

Dum Dums doughnuts at Shoreditch Box Park

In addition to all the delicious food eaten on this tour, it acted as a fun orientation around the neighbourhood and it helped introduce me to an area which I otherwise might not have discovered. I returned to this interesting area a few more times in the following days for markets and some food carts. I’d recommend the Mother Clucker food cart for the most tender and tasty boneless fried chicken strips. It was parked near the Truman Brewery in March and really inspired me to try marinating chicken in buttermilk for added tenderness.

There are actually quite a few tips-only tours in London covering a range of different topics. We did a Jack the Ripper tour with Free Tours by Foot later during our stay. I definitely recommend this. It’s totally eerie wondering around dark alleyways at night discussing the gory details of an uncaught serial killer. I thought our tour guide was an expert in Jack the Ripper details and also the historical details of the time. Great tour!

If you’re feeling morbid, google “Victorian corpse photography”!

Speaking of serial killers, we passed the Cereal Killer Cafe during the food tour. It’s located very close to the Beigel Bake shop. In this shop, you can eat all kinds of cereals. Prices increase depending on the toppings and the rarity of the cereal you choose!

Cereal Killer Cafe

This blog was written about 2 months after I experienced this food tour so some things may have changed.

Hope you enjoyed this post. Make sure you check out if there are some tips-only tours in the big cities next time you go on holiday! Happy Eating!!

Homemade Indian Snacks

Sometimes, you just get lucky and come upon a recipe which is a winner. This recipe is definitely a winner! I can’t take credit for this recipe. It came from a friend’s mother but there are a few things I do differently to tweak it for my family.

One batch of these will make a giant wok-ful of tasty Indian snacks which you can munch on and give away. They store well in air-tight containers, are delicious with a cold beer and are not too unhealthy!

Here is the recipe!

2 tablespoons oil
10 large sprigs fresh curry leaves (or as much as you want!)
200g cashew nuts, roasted
200g peanuts, roasted
200g sultanas
2 teaspoons  chilli powder
1 teaspoon cumin powder
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
2 level teaspoons sugar
1 level teaspoon salt
270g rice bubbles
1 pkt (200g) french fries crisps (or more if you like!)

Heat oil in very large wok. Fry curry leaves crisp, in very hot oil. Remove from wok
When oil is a bit cooler, fry nuts and sultanas. Add curry leaves
Then add chilli, cumin, turmeric powder, sugar, salt and keep frying.
Remove from heat. Add rice bubbles and mix well. add french fries and mix.
When cool, store in airtight container

For those who learn pictorially, here is the recipe step-by-step with pictures!

First, get your curry leaves.

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I like to use lots because they are delicious and crispy in the final product and their flavour really adds to the tastiness of the snack. They shrink down when they’re cooked so don’t worry if you think you have too many leaves!

Remember to take the leaves off the stem.

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Gather your ingredients. Your nuts and sultanas. Put your spices into one bowl

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Fry the curry leaves. Be careful, they tend to pop and splutter in the oil.

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Remove them from the wok and set aside.

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Fry the nuts and sultanas.

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Add the curry leaves and spices and fry some more.

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Turn off the heat and add the rice bubbles. Mix well.

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Add the french fries and mix well.

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And you’re done!! A giant wok full of Spicy Indian Snacks. Eat some, give some away! They’re addictive!

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How to Travel for a Long Time with only Hand Luggage

Let’s start with why anyone would bother travelling lightly. What are the advantages? What does travelling lightly mean? When is travelling lightly possible and when is it not appropriate?

I define travelling lightly as meeting the carry-on criteria on most airlines. This would be a bag weighing less than 7kg and a handbag or laptop bag. I travel with a 25 litre Lowe Alpine backpack and a handbag.  A roller bag is really nice when you’re not travelling light, but when you’re only handling 7kg’s a back-pack should OK.  Back-packs also tend to be lighter, which means more pay-load.

With only a small backpack and my handbag, I’ve travelled Europe, USA, South America, Asia, Morocco and parts of Australia. The longest duration of travel with only these items was 10 months. I’ve also done a 5 month trip and a 3 month trip travelling lightly.

I really love the security and ease of having less stuff to deal with when travelling. I don’t have to worry about the airline losing my check-in luggage or tampering with it or stealing from it. I am close to all my possessions at all times so they are more secure. My backpack is small enough that I can have it next to me when I sleep on an overnight train.

With only a light backpack to carry, you have so much more mobility. We got off the plane in Mexico city and caught the subway to our accommodation. If I was dragging a massive roller bag, I would’ve felt too vulnerable to tackle a busy subway not to mention struggling to negotiate stairs with a heavy, massive bag amongst hordes of rushing commuters.

Obviously there are times when traveling light is not possible. For example, if you’re off skiing with loads of bulky gear.  Young kids and babies tend to need lots of stuff. Also, if you are going to places where the temperature is less than zero. You will then require more bulky items to stay warm.

So what are my top tips for travelling lightly…..

Be Ruthless – it almost goes without saying, but you need to review what you’re taking and make sure every single item is really needed and if possible will serve multiple purposes.  Think through each item and try to substitute it with something that’s smaller, lighter and more useful.  For example we have a single compact worldwide travel adaptor that also charges two USB devices at the same time. This gets a lot of use!

Layer for warmth – Carrying a thin long-sleeved merino thermal top takes hardly any room but adds a lot of warmth. Worn in combination with a long-sleeved shirt, jeans, a soft shell jacket and a sarong around my neck as a scarf, I’m quite happy in temperatures down to 0 degrees Celsius. Merino clothing is quite convenient for travelling lightly because it’s very light and dries quickly, provides a lot of warmth for its weight and amazingly, can be worn for many, many times without getting smelly. I can confirm (somewhat sheepishly) that I’ve worn a merino singlet for about 50 times without washing and it didn’t smell bad at all. Amazing stuff! The big down side of Merino clothing is that insects love to make holes in it. I guess because it’s a natural material, insects seem to favour it over other materials and it’s not uncommon to get out an expensive Merino item and find tiny holes in it. It makes me really cranky and I hope that manufacturers find a solution to this soon!

Consider the weather when you are planning your trip. If you want to travel lightly, then visit places during the warmer seasons. For example, we headed to South America as North America moved to winter.

Wear your heaviest outfit when you are flying. The size and weight of your luggage will get the most scrutiny when you checking in for a flight. Wear your jeans, closed in shoes and jacket to minimize the size of your backpack.

Wash your clothing often at your accommodation – Naturally, if you don’t have much luggage space, you won’t have outfits to last you a week without washing. I like to say, we carry “one to wash, one to wear and one to spare!” We carry a small zip lock bag of washing powder and do a wash in the sink at the hotel. I tend to wash an item or two every night whereas my travel companion will store up his dirty laundry for a few days and do a much bigger wash.

A handy trick to substantially cut down on drying time is to place your hand wrung item into the hotel towel and wring the towel. The towel draws out even more moisture from your item of clothing and will significantly reduce the drying time. Place your damp items in well ventilated areas and increase the ventilation in the room if you can e.g. turn on the fan.

Quick dry fabrics from outdoor shops will dry overnight however I find they are really terrible in warm weather since they don’t breath.  In fact, I would steer clear of any quick-dry synthetic fabric shirts (even those with vents and flaps etc).  Quick dry pants, shorts and skirts seem to be OK. Natural fabrics like cotton, linen and merino breathes well and dries quickly.

You need a lot less toiletries than you think. These shampoo and conditioner advertisements on TV will have you think that to wash your hair, you need a handful of the product. They have a vested interest in making money by selling more product! I find that only a tiny amount suffices and it makes the small 100ml containers allowed in hand luggage go a LOT further. Slowly reduce the quantity of shampoo and conditioner you use at home and actually see how little will still leave your hair clean and manageable. The money you save from buying shampoo and conditioner, you can put in your travel piggy bank!

Roll, don’t fold! Rolling your clothes seems to minimize their volume in your backpack and allows you to pack more densely. It also leaves less unsightly wrinkles in your clothes.

Mix and Match and Multi-use. Pick a colour scheme and choose only clothing items that go with everything else in the bag. This maximizes how many combinations you can have from a small number of items. I also bring items that I use for multiple purposes. I bring a sarong which I use as a cover-up during swimming, a pillow during plane flights, a scarf in cold weather and a modesty scarf for temple visits. My long-sleeved travel shirt doubles as my swimming sun protection shirt. You get the idea! Yes, you will still be wearing the same stuff all the time and it does get boring but I think about it as my travel uniform and the energy I save from deciding what to wear in the morning can be channelled into more sightseeing!

Shoes – this can be a tough one, but I find that I can get by with one pair of decent walking shoes and one pair of light-weight sandals.  The shoes must be chosen carefully since you’re going to wear them a lot (so you’d better really like them) and to everything from a fancy dinner treat to a mountain climb.  It is possible cover a wide range of uses with one pair of shoes if you look for a pair of walking shoes that are low-key enough to pass as street shoes.  This is definitely not an item to scrimp on!  In the course of travelling for a few months and doing loads of walking, lesser quality shoes just won’t last. Trying to find great shoes when on the road is a real hassle, so don’t compromise. I pack a pair of sandals as well. I like to have them for the beach and in case the showers in a camp-site are of dubious hygiene. I used to wear Ipanema sandals which were amazingly durable. Currently, I’m using a pair M Dreams sandals. Both brands are compact, light and waterproof.

Shopping When you’re travelling light, shopping is often not possible. During my 10 month trip, I collected earrings as souvenirs because they don’t take up much space in my bag. For larger items like clothing, the rule is that if you buy something, you have to throw something away. Another alternative that some travellers use is to post things home, but in my experience, it’s rarely worthwhile once postage is taken into account. The most important thing to bring home with you after travelling are the photos you take and the memories you make!

Electronics are really important to travelling in this day and age. Being able to access the internet on the road is really useful, in particular for long trips to keep in touch with friends and family as well as researching the next stage of your journey.  Lots of documents and reference information can be stored on your devices. In particular, guide books are now available in electronic format and this saves loads of space and weight.  However, what would happen if you lost or had one of your devices stolen?  Think about this and pack a spare or a backup thumb drive with any important data.

Camping and Special Gear – we’ve been camping quite a bit whilst travelling and had some really great times doing it.  The trick we use is to buy camping gear when we need it, then on-sell it when we’re finished.  Since camping costs so much less than staying in hotels or even youth hostels, the extra cost of buying camping gear from time to time is almost always justifiable.

Still bring the important stuff! Just because you want to travel light, don’t neglect to bring the important stuff. I like to bring a copy of my glasses prescription and spare pair just in case. Bring an ample supply of your prescription drugs as well as your immunization records if they are relevant for where you are going e.g. yellow fever. Bring sunscreen and insect repellent. I bring photocopies of my passport and also a bank statement. The bank statement is to prove to countries that you have the means to leave their country even if you haven’t booked your outgoing flight as yet.

In most scenarios, you will still be able to buy something if you need it! This is the most important thing! Let’s assume you forgot your toothbrush or your sunscreen or you’ve run out of shampoo! In most situations, you will be able to buy these items on the road. It’s not a big issue! Even in the unlikely event that you get invited to a black tie function out of the blue, you are most probably be able to buy that gorgeous shimmering ball gown wherever you are. No need to pack that in your suitcase!

Hope you have found my tips useful. What are your most useful travel hacks? Do tell! I’d love to know!

Eating Bugs in Siem Reap!

On the spur of the moment, I decided to seize the opportunity and go on Siem Reap Food Tours. I was tossing it up for a while being put off by the price of the tour. In Cambodia, $65 USD for a food tour is a lot of money with all the cooking classes being priced well below that. I decided to do it because I love food and understanding stuff about the food culture of the place I’m in. The tour is also in a very small group and run by a chef. I knew it was the right decision once I’d committed because I was super excited (in a way I never am when it’s time to go see another museum, monument or temple!)

It was just 3 of us and the chef/tour guide in the tuk tuk for the food tour. We did four stops and the whole duration was about 4 hours. Sounds like a long time but it passed quickly and was very enjoyable.

The four stops are as follows;

  • Local restaurant for some prahok dishes;
  • BBQ Beef with Prahok Dip restaurant;
  • Duck Hot Pot restaurant; and
  • Night market.

Prahok is a very Cambodian ingredient. It’s fermented fish. The fish is fermented for preservation purposes. They use it often in their dishes instead of eating it on its own. The first stop was at a local restaurant where some dishes were ordered.

  • Prahok curry with green pea eggplant;
  • Omelette fried with prahok; and
  • Green mango salad with smoked fish.

Prahok DishesClockwise from left – Prahok curry, raw vegetables to accompany the curry, prahok omelette

This prahok curry was dry-style without loads of gravy and done with pork mince. It came with a plate of fresh crudites or raw vegetables to accompany it. It was tasty with the prahok giving it a salty, slightly fishy taste. I’m not a big fan of those green pea eggplants as they are quite bitter when you bite into them. I’m not sure what they add to the dish except colour. I’m a big fan of omelettes done like this and this was no exception. For me, it’s comforting home style cooking with the prahok adding some texture, saltiness and fishy taste to the egg. The mango salad was very refreshing and I like the addition of fresh herbs. The smoked fish was nice but I don’t think it made this mango salad any better than a mango salad without it.

BeefBBQSiemReapFront of the BBQ beef restaurant where beef is being cooked

Back into the tuk tuk and onwards through the bustling Siem Reap to the next stop which is a BBQ beef place. The cuts of beef were on the coals at the front of the store and we were brought various ingredients to personalise our prahok dip as well as some fresh salad ingredients to accompany the meal. This dipping sauce is made with boiling fish stock and mushed, sieved prahok. You can then personalise your dip with some crushed, roasted peanuts, chopped lemongrass, chillies and lime. The dip is then eaten with fresh vegetables like cabbage, cucumber and green banana or with the BBQ beef. The green banana tastes quite starchy and leaves a weird sensation in your mouth.

PrahokSauceClockwise from front – Personalised prahok dip, raw vegetables to accompany dip, stuff to add to the dip

 

Although it’s counter-intuitive to eat beef with fish at the same time, this BBQ beef with salty prahok dip combination works really well!

Onwards to the next stop!! More delicious food is waiting to be savoured. The next stop specializes in duck soup. It’s run by a Cambodian family and it’s their secret family recipe. We had a gas powered hot pot at the centre of the table with the duck soup. To this, tofu, duck meat, greens and other things were added including a duck embryo! This is a fertilised duck egg which is cracked open and the developing embryo is dropped in to gently poach in the soup. The pictures show the embryo before and after cooking.

DuckEmbryoUncooked duck embryo over the duck hot pot

CookedDuckEmbryoPoached Duck Embryo – yellow part is the yolk and the other part is the curled up developing duckling

I have long maintained that even though I will try just about any food, I will not try the fertilised eggs. It’s a specialty in the Philippines where they eat it raw. These fertilised eggs can be eaten at various states of development so obviously the closer to hatching, the more obvious the features of the baby bird are. I was very curious to see if I could recognise any parts of the bird either before or after it was cooked. In the picture of the cooked embryo, the yellow section is the yolk and the other bit is the curled up developing duckling which feeds off the yolk to grow. I didn’t eat the embryo. One for my tour companions was game enough to try it. I’m told that it’s really tender and tasty and the person who did eat it said that it was nice and there were no suspicious hard bits e.g. beak, feet or bones. Even though I still refused to eat it, I think having the embryo a little younger and therefore less recognisable and having it poached makes it far more approachable. I was told in some cases, the embryo unfurls and separates from the yolk and then ends up sitting in the soup uncurled looking like a baby duckling.

OK enough on my fixation on fertilised eggs and baby birds! The hot pot was delicious. It had a beautiful duck flavour which intensified as the hot pot continued to boil and reduced. To make it more indulgent, a can of milk was added to the soup. This is a strange addition for an Asian soup but who cares?! The soup was delicious and duck flavoured and getting sweeter with every bowl. I think I had about 4 or 5 bowls of this hot pot!

By now, I’m getting quite full as we tuk tuk onto the night market. Here we saw a lady selling insects. They were fried and seasoned. The crickets were salty, sweet and crunchy. I’d be happy to munch through a pack of these watching TV. The silkworms were mushy on the inside and the taste was a little reminiscent of boiled peanuts. To eat the black shiny waterbugs, first you have to rip off the hard wings and hard head. These initially didn’t taste like much, a little crunchy but at the end you get a hit of surprising shellfish flavour. How strange! Eating insects  is not a central part of the Cambodian diet. They may eat them like a snack like peanuts but it’s not exactly a coveted delicacy or a daily necessity.

 

CricketsSiemReap1

Crickets or grasshoppers all fried up ready for eating.

 

CricketsSiemReap2More crickets or grasshoppers but these were slightly smaller in size.

 

SilkWormsSiemReapSilkworms for eating

 

WaterBugsWater bugs – must remove hard wings and head before eating.

We freshened our palate after the insects with some slices of mango covered in chilli salt followed by a piece of jackfruit. Then we tried a rice pancake. These looked like large prawn crackers but tasted totally different. They were thinner than a prawn cracker hence a totally different texture and slightly sweet in taste. Not at all like a prawn cracker! More like the crispy part of an Indian thosai pancake. These were made by an old lady who then puffed up the rice crackers over the open fire using her metal rakes to hold the cracker over the fire.

We picked up some Cambodian dessert for later on at a stall with lots to choose from!

CambodianSweetsAn array of Cambodian sweets for sale.

We then progressed to a BBQ stall where a number of BBQ items were chosen.

BBQstallA BBQ stall with a wide range of BBQ meats on skewers to sale.

The tour guide chose;

  • Deep fried tiny frogs;
  • BBQ Prahok in banana leaf;
  • BBQ pork ribs;
  • Skewer of baby chicken; and
  • BBQ large frogs stuffed with curry paste.

LittleFrogsPortions of little deep fried frogs ready for sale in styrofoam containers.

 

BBQplateClockwise from front – BBQ prahok in banana leaf, stuffed frogs, baby chicken on skewer and BBQ pork ribs

The tiny frogs were surprisingly tasty even though it is a little weird eating these little creatures which had died in these various poses. They tasted like chicken but they were crunchy in texture from being deep fried.

LittleFrog1Little deep fried frog ready to pop into my mouth.

 

LittleFrog2Slightly larger deep fried frog – two bites for this one!

The BBQ prahok had a strong salty and fishy flavour. Not bad but not my favourite. The pork ribs were yum. How can you go wrong with a good marinade and a BBQ? The skewer of baby chicken was strange. I couldn’t work out what part of the chicken these kidney shaped pieces were. I was told, it is baby chicken but not the embryo. They were lovely and tender and had that lovely smoky, charred BBQ flavour which is always good with meat.

The highlight was the juicy, tender BBQ frogs stuffed with the fragrant curry paste. The curry paste had Kaffir lime leaves in it so you can imagine that classic Kaffir lime leaf curry smell. The frog legs were very tender and came away easily from the body. The meat tastes like chicken and the frog leg experience is not unlike chicken wings. Somehow, the bones have been removed from the frog body and the cavity filled with curry paste. The curry filling seemed to have a sausage like texture. It was just delicious – spicy, fragrant, juicy and tender!

Now somehow, I have to find room for dessert. First we sampled balls of flour dusted, rice flour balls filled with desiccated coconut and sugar. There were pretty average and would have been vastly improved if they had used palm sugar instead of white sugar.

2CambodianDessertsTwo Cambodian Desserts

The second and final dessert was glutinous rice balls with a liquid palm sugar syrup filling and eaten with toasted coconut flakes. This was delicious and similar to Malaysian Ondeh-Ondeh.

What a great night! This is my way of learning about a country and their culture. Much more fun then visiting temples or museums.

A word of warning, even though I am an adventurous eater, the fear of having tummy issues on holiday is a real deterrent to eating freely whilst on holiday especially in countries where food hygiene is not regulated. A yucky tummy makes for a pretty miserable holiday experience! For me, this is a real driver to seek out these food tours and having an expert take me to places which I would not dare try by myself. As they feed lots of tourists, it minimizes the risk of getting the sick whilst still giving me an opportunity to try some amazing food.

 

Yummy dinner in Phnom Penh

The air is smoky with small fires being burnt all day. Chinese people have been burning fake money outside the front of their homes or shopfronts to bring good luck for the year ahead. Some of the money is quite convincing! I’m sure I saw a real $20USD bill amongst the fake looking $1USD bills on the pile to be burnt. I saw one shopfront with a massive whole roast pig, bowls of rice and other offerings.

It’s the day before Chinese New Year so we decided to splurge on somewhere nice for dinner. I chose Romdeng Restaurant for the evening and was pleasantly surprised by the lovely atmosphere and delicious food and attention to detail of this restaurant. This restaurant has extra brownie points because it trains disadvantaged young people with useful trades and tries to keep alive traditional Cambodian dishes.

We had a table in the lovely gardens around the main house. I was worried about mosquitoes but under each table, they had mosquito repelling coils burning. Love it! No mosquito problems!

For a drink, I tried their Khmer style fresh pumpkin and coconut juice. I had no idea what to expect! What came was a thick, smooth drink topped with shavings of what smelt like shavings from Nyonya style Love Letters. The drink was smooth, quite viscous, a little sweet and fragrant of coconut. Yum!

For food, we ordered,

  • Romdeng’s Famous Chicken and Vegetable Curry Served with a Baguette;
  • Stir Fried Red Tree Ants with Beef Fillet and Holy Basil; and
  • Cambodian Rice Pancake Filled with Yam Beans, Bean Sprouts and Toasted Coconut.

It came out with a generous serving of steam rice. I love restaurants that aren’t stingy on their rice. The curry was delicious. It was similar to a Malaysian curry with their flavouring and use of coconut milk. The ant dish was great. The ants were quite large. I estimate they were about 8mm in length and generously fried in the dish with thinly sliced lemon grass and chunky bits of garlic and shallots. It’s delicious in combination with the chilli, beef and holy basil. A classic Thai style combo in my experience.

So what’s it like eating red ants? Nice! I couldn’t say they tasted of anything in particular. I think they added a nice texture to the dish. It’s a strange seeing them on my plate with their little bodies and legs but I’m not squeamish about stuff like this and ate heartily anyway!

The rice pancake was a surprise! It came wrapped around a filling of yam beans and dried shrimp. There was also a plate provided full of herbs, cucumber and bean sprouts. We also got a couple of sauces, a sweet, vinegary clear sauce with crushed roasted peanuts and a white coconut sauce. I’m not sure what yam bean is but google tells me the name of the vegetable is Jicama. I know this vegetable as “mangkuang” and the vegetable used for the filling of Penang style “pohpiah” spring rolls. In fact, the pancake filling tasted exactly like “pohpiah” filling. This Cambodian version uses a different style of pancake and the use of fresh herbs and sauces to accompany adds a fresh flavour and crunch to the dish.

All the dishes were tasty, well seasoned, beautifully presented and well portioned. Top marks all round!!

Of course, my dining partner had room for dessert! He chose the Turmeric crepes filled with caramelised bananas and topped with coconut ice cream. This came beautifully presented and drizzled with a very sweet sauce. The dish was very very sweet. It was fragrant, rich and delicious but way too sweet for my tastes.

Overall, my experience of Romdeng was very favourable. Our bill came to just under $30USD. Even thought this is more expensive that most meals in Phnom Penh, I thought it was fair because all the food was delicious and the restaurant’s attention to detail is commendable. A great and yummy experience! A definite must visit if you are in Phnom Penh!

Food 9/10

Atmosphere 9/10

Price 9/10